You can use all of these words and many more to describe Valparaiso, but the truth is that this city escapes definition. But let's start with the basic facts: Valparaiso is Chile's largest port and one of its oldest, dating back to 1536.

Though some claim that there are 42, no one knows exactly how many hills circle the bay of Valparaiso. Whatever the number, there are many of them, and each is filled with multicolored houses perched at crazy angles connected by a gigantic labyrinth of streets, long staircases and lookout points. Between these hills and the sea lies a downtown area filled with beautiful architecture, narrow streets and even trolleybuses.

Since it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002, the city's landscape has welcomed new hotels, restaurants and bookstores. But the port's traditional culture remains, and the history of "Pancho," as local residents affectionately call their city, is visible in every corner, particularly in the port neighborhood. You can't leave Valparaiso without taking a ride on its outdoor elevators or touring the bay in one of the hundreds of small passenger boats that wait at the piers. And don't miss out on the "chorrillana," a local dish made with fried steak, eggs, onions and potatoes, or an evening of dancing and drinks in the bars and clubs on Subida Ecuador.

The city's cultural calendar includes the urban festival Carnavales Culturales and its famous New Year's celebration, which features crowds of hundreds of thousands of people ringing in the New Year around the bay and an incredible 30-minute long fireworks display.

How to get there

By Bus. Busses depart Santiago from the Alameda and Santiago terminals (Universidad de Santiago Metro Station, Line 1) and Pajaritos terminal (Pajaritos Metro Station, Line 1). There's one every 15 minutes from 6 a.m. until 10:30 p.m.

By Car. If you're traveling by car to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar, take Route 68, which intersects with the capital's main thoroughfare (Alameda) and the Americo Vespucio beltway. The drive takes approximately 90 minutes.

Activities and attractions

Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion are a major part of the port's history, which dates back to the Colonial period, and neither is shy about showing off its heritage. The neighborhoods that have grown in and around them are part of the Zona Tipica (historical district) of Valparaiso.

The lay-out of the Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion shopping districts has not changed in hundreds of years, and the neighborhoods' aristocratic heritage has left a trail of stunning and tastefully decorated manor homes. Lose yourself in winding streets where locals and tourists mingle amidst a jumble of antique mansions, colorful houses, graffiti-covered walls, boutiques, traditional bakeries and restaurants specializing in fusion cuisine.

This tour will provide you with an opportunity to admire Valparaiso's El Peral, Reina Victoria and Concepcion ascensores (elevators), all of which are historical monuments. The city's patrimony also is represented by the San Pablo Anglican Church (1858) and Baburizza palace (1916). Together with centuries old manor homes that have become boutique hotels and spacious restaurants, they bring a very distinctive vibe to the neighborhood.

Visitors never seem to tire of the area's pedestrian walkways, all of which provide gorgeous views of the bay. Paseo Gervasoni offers a chance to visit the house-museum of Chilean cartoonist Lukas, and artists can be found painting images of the city and port on Paseo Atkisnon. Finally, Paseo Yugoslavo is home of Baburizza palace, which was designed by two famous Italian architects who arrived to the region in the early 20th century. The art nouveau-style mansion is now home to the Bellas Artes' museum Art Gallery.

One of the first things you will notice when you reach Sotomayor square is the monument dedicated to the sailors who lost their lives in the Battle of Iquique on May 21, 1879. The Heroes of Iquique statue stands right in the center of Sotomayor square, which is in turn the heart of Valparaíso.

The square is surrounded by historical buildings, so don't be shy with your camera. Highlights include the Port Station, the Firefighters' Headquarters and the former Mayor's office, which was inspired by 17th century French architecture and now houses the offices of the 1st Naval District of the Chilean Army. All of this history shares blocks and street corners with modern cafes and traditional pubs that attract visitors and locals day and night.

Just off the square is Prat Wharf, where you can enjoy impressive views of the port and breakwater. It can be reached via the Station and Customs Superintendent Towers. Dozens of small boats await visitors who wish to tour the bay. If you prefer to stay on dry land, you can watch the huge merchant and naval vessels at the docks. The area also has a small arts and crafts fair and a few restaurants.

Built right into its distinctive hills, the elevators of Valparaiso are a common means of transportation for its residents. For you, they'll be an original way of getting to know the port while enjoying stunning vistas of its rolling landscape and the sea beyond it.

Valparaiso is home to 15 working elevators, all of them historical monuments, and there is talk of restoring the older, more deteriorated ones. You can begin your tour of the elevators from two points: above Argentina avenue (which offers a selection of lesser known routes with clear views) or starting at Pedro Montt and moving towards the east (bordering the bay and the port area).

The first section is home to the Larrain, Lecheros, Baron and Polanco elevators, the last of which is unique in that it connects to the street through a tunnel and rises vertically, offering no view of the hills or ocean. However, you will be treated to stunning vistas from the panoramic tower at the end of the track.

Most elevators are located on Pedro Montt avenue and go high enough into the hills to offer fantastic views of the bay. The Mariposas, Monjitas and Florida elevators are all close to the Victoria square, and Espiritu Santo elevator will get you to Museo de Cielo Abierto (Open air Museum). Reina Victoria, which is located at Subida Cumming, offers one of the most picturesque climbs, and Artilleria reaches Paseo 21 de Mayo, where you can watch the sun set over the city of Valparaiso, the port and neighboring Vina del Mar.

Independence Day (September 18) was the symbolic date chosen by poet Pablo Neruda to inaugurate his new home in Valparaiso in 1961. Located at the top of Cerro Bellavista, the four-storey house designed by architect Sebastian Collado was to become the poet's refuge from Santiago.

He named the place La Sebastiana in honor of its former owner, and today it is an iconic Valparaiso edifice and museum that reveals much of Neruda's artistic identity. The Nobel Laureate had a knack of transforming each of his homes into an experience by decorating them with hundreds of objects collected during his travels.

The lower floors of La Sebastiana are home to a wooden horse from Paris, a portrait of Lord Cochrane, collections of plates featuring hot air balloons, many maps, antiques that evoke different aspects of sailing and the sea, pieces of stained glass, a stuffed bird from Venezuela, a stunning cow-shaped soup bowl from Italy, a picture frame that is also a music box and a clock, and walls painted in pink, blue, yellow, green and magenta tones.

On the fourth floor is a brass bed facing the sea (Neruda did the same with the bed in his Isla Negra home). From there you'll be able to enjoy one of the best views of Valparaiso and understand why the poet loved his house so. La Sebastiana Cultural Center, which hosts activities such as art exhibits, conferences, courses, workshops and poetry readings, is also located on the grounds.